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Showing posts with label Key Largo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Key Largo. Show all posts

Monday, April 4, 2011

Sailing the Intercoastal and not feeling any magic...



Sailing from Key Largo along the Intercoastal and on up to Miami left me feeling somewhat flat and not feeling the same magic that I once experienced while sailing these same waters some twenty-some years ago while aboard S/V BratCat.

For whatever reason all I could think about was of making the most of every whiff of air to fill the sails and of scurrying on up to Miami all in two days. This two day sail felt more like a boat delivery if the truth be told.

Somehow all I felt was a small measure of satisfaction and of relief after having successfully negotiated the shallow channel waters and of not running aground. There simply was little magic this time around... all of which has me thinking of the joyful exhilaration that I experienced when previously sailing these same waters long ago.

Among my more memorable memories when previously sailing the Intercoastal was of anchoring off in Card Sound and later going ashore along with my then wife, for a delightful plate of crab cakes and cold beer at Alabama Jacks.

This previously quaint dockside bar & grill is still there but is now obscured from the sound by overgrown mangroves. The place has been expanded somewhat to accommodate larger crowds yet now seems to mostly cater to old disgruntled bikers of all things. Alabama Jacks no longer seems to possess the charm that it once did.

Another vivid memory when previously sailing the Intercoastal happened later that same evening when two jet fighters, evidently on a training mission from Homestead AFB, could be seen and heard flying low over the water and then screaming straight up into the night sky with their afterburners glowing bright orange.

S/V BratCat may well have unwittingly been a training mission target for all I know. Every halyard on that boat seemed to continue rattling for a good thirty minutes afterwards. Even the barnacles that had been steadfastly clinging onto the bottom of her hull all chose to release their tight grip after those two jets went vertical directly above the mast.

In any event there simply were no memorable moments this time around. Then yet again there were but I simply didn't notice any for lack of having a companion aboard to share in the experience.



The top image is of me aboard S/V BratCat coming upon a channel marker somewhere along the Intercoastal.

Sunday, March 20, 2011

An Unpleasant Encounter with a Fellow Boater...



Sunset Cove is as charming as it gets and the memory of my first morning at that quiet anchorage will most assuredly be forever embedded in my mind. It could just as well have been a scene right out of some long forgotten postcard with its pristine waters glistening in various bright shades of blues and greens.

Well that first morning, as previously narrated in a prior blog entry, didn't quite conclude upon me "rescuing" and taking the occupants of a capsized kayak to shore. While motoring my dinghy on back to my boat, I happened to observe another boater climbing off his boat and down into his dinghy.

The fellow wasn't all that far off so I turned and headed on over in his direction to inquire where I might later be able to go ashore and tie off my inflatable. The fellow didn't seem all that enthusiastic about responding to my questions at first but he did eventually point out a spot along the shoreline before continuing on with his task.

The public access was a narrow easement between two dockside establishments. I then thanked him and continued on my way back to my boat but not before noting that his boat was completely crapped-out and in total disrepair.

That sailing vessel if I can call it that, happened to be missing a good portion of its rigging and its sails appeared to be in tatters... not that it was any of my concern. He later explained that he didn't know how to sail and that he simply had been living aboard the boat for the past three years.

It also occurred to me that this young fellow wasn't quite right in the head and not someone that I might want to be associating with in the future. Not only that but I was immediately regretting having pointed out my boat to him at anchor on the other end of the cove.

I was somehow fearing coming back to my boat one afternoon only to find all my gear missing from aboard my boat. You could certainly say that I was sceaved out by that character.

Well I did indeed go ashore later that morning right where the fellow had indicated I'd find public access into town. I proceeded to tie my dinghy off to a mangrove branch among a few other dinghies before wading in ankle deep water onto shore.

Empty liquor bottles could be seen strewn about throughout that easement. A number of rusted out bicycles could also be seen interspersed throughout the mangroves.

It certainly wasn't a reassuring feeling to say the least insofar as security was concerned... especially since I had yet to put a lock on my outboard and had left my steel cable back aboard my boat.

A quick trek on through a neighborhood street soon led me straight into the heart of Key Largo and its busy highway. That busy highway with all its traffic was indeed in sharp contrast to the serenity of the quiet anchorage.

I then started to stroll on back to my unsecured dinghy when to my surprise I happened to meet up with the same sceavy fellow that I had briefly chatted with earlier that morning.

Together we then walked on back to the mangrove where our dinghies were tied off all the while discussing where one could refill a few water cans and while strolling back to our dinghies, the fellow would periodically take a swig from a small bottle that he had cupped in the palm of his hand.

The label on that small clear bottle was readily recognizable... inside that bottle was some of Russia's finest vodka... Stolichnaya... not that I wanted any of it.

The liver may indeed be an evil organ and indeed deserve to be punished but sipping vodka straight out of a bottle before noon is certainly taking it to an entirely different level. That most certainly was some hardcore drinking and no thanks... I believe I'll stick to just beer and wine.

Upon reaching our respective dinghies, the fellow then proceeded to inquire whether I had any spare gear aboard my boat that I might want to sell to him... and while smacking his lips after taking yet another swig of vodka, he went on to explain that he had three hundred dollars and wished to outfit a fishing boat so that he could do some shrimping at night and thereby get himself something to eat.

I in turn curtly responded that I had but a compass onboard and little else insofar as gear was concerned before motoring away back to my boat. While motoring I couldn't help but think that the dude would most certainly incur a mishap of sorts if he were to even so much as come close to my boat.

That encounter for whatever reason had me remembering of the time when I previously sailed aboard S/V BratCat some twenty-some years ago throughout the Bahamas and of hearing an incident involving some fellow cruisers.

The story has it that two local Bahamians boarded a sailing vessel late one night demanding money while one of the intruders held a potato peeler to the throat of the wife. The husband then "complied" by opening his "strong box" and then "neutralizing" the unwelcomed guests with his handgun.

The two individuals were then summarily dumped overboard. The boat's anchors were then silently pulled up in the middle of the night with the vessel then sailing directly to the American Embassy in Nassau to report the incident.

Local government authorities were then said to have summarily dismissed the incident as simply "Death By Misadventure"... something to do with old British Maritime Law and the cruisers were instructed not to worry about their experience and that they were free to go about their business.

Have I mentioned that the pristine waters off of Key Largo are an absolute delight to behold?

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Going Ashore and Watching Out for Falling Coconuts...



Key Largo is most certainly a delightful destination but local officials do seem to have a problem controlling an excessive population of wild monkeys.

Restaurant owners have even had to resort to posting signs advising patrons of falling coconuts. Evidently the monkeys enjoy amusing themselves by dropping coconuts on top of unsuspecting tourists heads.

Dealing with Sea Predators while Cruising aboard S/V Blondie-Dog...



Belying the placid waters of Sunset Cove is a never ending frenzy of fish feeding on one another. It is also not unusual for the serenity of a quiet anchorage to suddenly be disrupted by a fish jumping high out of the water while attempting to elude a hungry predator wanting to make a meal out of him.

Well just the other day I happened to be in the water scraping barnacles off of the hull of my boat when to my great consternation, a bad-ass shark came upon me.

Fortunately for me that shark must have thought that I was of Mexican descent and thought better of making a meal out of me for fear of having his rear-end burning for weeks on end.

(memo to self: eat more jalapenos...)






Friday, March 4, 2011

Wandering about Key Largo while Palling Around with Humphrey Bogart...









Key Largo certainly is a nice change of pace from Marathon and this Key definitely caters to a more affluent kind of crowd... as in European tourists and sports fishermen for starters.

It is also not uncommon to hear tourists speaking French throughout the various establishments. Scattered about this Key are quite a number of both quaint and upscale dockside bars all overlooking the various canals and sounds... it goes without saying that one really can't go wrong patronizing any one of these places.

In addition there are a multitude of dive shops and charter boats all busily ferrying tourist to and from the various alluring water sport activities.

I like Key Largo... it is a pretty cool place as far as tourist destinations go.

In any event I happened to be sipping on a few cold ones at the Caribbean Club a few days ago up on Blackwood Sound when to my surprise, none other than Humphrey Bogart shows up and takes a seat across the bar.

Soon thereafter we were both idly chatting about a whole lot of nothing and what not. He even later graciously picked up my bar tab. So yeah, me and Humphrey Bogart have since been hooking up and palling around the town in the evenings.

The guy is quite a charming character and can certainly appeal to the ladies. I've even had to fend off a number of exceedingly attractive French tourists with their salacious whisperings just for hanging around with the guy...

You may perhaps recall that it was at this dockside bar many moons ago that the movie Key Largo was filmed.